Chez Christine

The French Laundry - Finally

Many apologies for this so-overdue-it's-not-even-funny post! I hope you understand that I grocery shop, cook, and write recipes full-time for another website, and finding the time to post here seems to require a Herculean effort and spare time that I never seem able to muster.

But here it is, and I'm a little glad I didn't put it together sooner - reminiscing made me realize what parts of this monumental meal were memorable and what parts weren't.

Some background - on a whim, I put myself on the waiting list at The French Laundry for the first weekend in November last year. Why then, you may ask? I honestly didn't know what came over me. Maybe I was looking to celebrate landing my first job in years that truly made me happy, maybe it was a strangely extravagant way to mark our half-year marriage anniversary. I figured we only live 45 minutes away, why shouldn't we go? Go before a mortgage, children, or more adult responsibilities would never allow for such an indulgence.

The phone call came the Friday before: a spot had opened for lunch, were we interested? The menu would be exactly the same as dinner. After frantic phone calls with H, we took the plunge. Eating at lunch actually suited us - a long tasting menu followed immediately with bed time is never a good idea (channel Guy Savoy). The other bonus was that we would be able to see the gardens in daylight and have natural light for photos.

To sum it up, I had an amazing time. Perfect, knowledgeable, unobtrusive service and a restrained sensibility that was different from other restaurant tastings we'd had. It was a marathon meal - probably 3 1/2 hours from when we sat down to when we concluded our kitchen tour (and tried not to gawk at Chef Keller as we walked in). While technique was decidedly French, the ingredients and combinations astounded us.

Would I do it again? In a heartbeat. I still have yet to experience the "oysters and pearls," although I could always pull out the cookbook and immerse myself in the recipe on a weekend afternoon. I went into the meal hoping that the hype would not exceed the experience and was pleasantly surprised when it didn't. Things were technically perfect and the precision was evident on the plates.

Was it worth the cost? While I am clearly raving about my lunch, it was really hard to justify the cost. I know the high costs of pristine ingredients and living wages for those preparing and serving the food, but it's still hard to think of how much high-quality, local, organic food I could buy for the same price.

So come with me on the journey: Bon Appétit!
 

The Signature French Laundry Clothespin

There was the regular tasting menu and the vegetable (but not necessarily vegetarian) tasting menu. We opted for the regular with a few supplements, making sure not to order the same thing when given the choice for a course. Our marriage works well because we are sharers!

Gougères

Warm gougères appeared as we sipped our glasses of champagne and perused the menu. Good, but not mind-blowing.

Salmon "Cornets"
Crème Fraîche, Sweet Red Onion

The famous salmon cornets arrived in their delicate holders and were amazing. Crispy, briny, creamy, and toasty all in one bite.

Cauliflower "Panna Cotta"
with Island Creek Oyster Glaze and California Sturgeon Caviar

The earthiness of cauliflower always works well when combined with cream, and there was a nice texture contrast form the oyster and caviar. Island Creeks are from Massachusetts, and a discussion with our server revealed that they preferred East Coast oysters for their flavor and size.

Salad of French Laundry Garden Beets
Blood Orange, Sunchokes, Tarragon and Red Ribbon Sorrel

One of the misses of the meal. While the flavors were fresh and bright, the portion was miniscule, even for a tasting. Three tiny bites of food were on the plate and made it difficult to share, especially given this was served at the same time as the foie gras. There was almost too much acidity on the plate, it needed something different to balance it out.

Moulard Duck "Foie Gras en Terrine"
Cranberries, Pecans, Belgian Endive,
Celery Branch and Toasted Brioche

Why, oh why, is foie gras so good? I've had my share of foie gras terrines, and this had a texture that was perfectly smooth and melted immediately in the mouth. The cranberries were a nice touch to cut through the fattiness, and when is toasted brioche ever a bad idea? H ate his half of this dish first, and when we switched, our server magically appeared with a freshly-toasted slice of brioche for me- outstanding! I wish he would appear by my bed with the same thing every morning!

Sautéed Japanese Bluefin Tuna
Fennel Bulb, Pine Nuts, Niçoise Olive, Arugula, and Spanish Saffron

One of the dishes I can't seem to recall having an opinion about.

Florida Everglades Frog's Legs
Thumbelina Carrots, Tokyo Turnips, French Laundry Garden
Sugar Snap Peas, Sweet Garlic Pudding and "Buerre Rouge"

I'm always a sucker for frog's legs, probably because they are always served with strong flavors like garlic and parsley. This preparation didn't disappoint, with the careful frenching of the meat to make it easier to eat and the rich red wine-and-butter sauce to drag it all through.

New Bedford Sea Scallop "Poêlée"
Caramelized Brussels Sprouts, Chestnuts,
Caraway Melba and Dijon Mustard

Another East Coast transplant, the scallop was beautifully cooked and seared, with an interesting depth from the chestnuts. I feared chestnuts and scallops would be too sweet together, but the mustard and the melba helped to cut through it.

Pasta, Browned Butter, Parmesan, and White Truffles

There was a huge supplement for this additional course, but we jumped on it because it was white truffle season and decided since we were here to go all out. (Don't even want to think about much it cost per bite!)

This course warrants three photos: the first was the pasta which arrived by itself. Rich, eggy, buttery, cheesy pasta whose smell was driving me crazy. Photo two is the server shaving an insane pile of truffles over it all (and me locked into the whole process), truffles that came from a beautiful lacquered box carrying a king's ransom worth of the beauties. Photo three is the completed dish, finished by yet another server holding a little saucier full of hot browned butter that when drizzled over it all, released more of that heady scent into my face. I DREAM of this. This is perfection.

I hate truffle oil and truffles used merely to "fancy" a dish up. This was the right way to treat a truffle.

Four Story Hill Farm Milk-Fed "Poularde"
Hobbs' Bacon, Akita Komahi Rice, Yuzu, Matsutake Mushrooms, Mizuna and Kanzuri

Perfectly moist chicken with crisp skin, some nice Asian influences in the garnish. Loved the rice.

"Chateaubriand" of Marcho Farms Veal
Sweetbread Peirogi, Port Onions, Arrowleaf Spinach, and Truffle Crème Fraîche

I think the highlight of this was the peirogi, but I'm a sucker for dumplings. The veal was as good as veal can be, but sometimes roasted sliced meats hold little appeal for me as there is no flavor development from added ingredients.

"Manchego"
Quince Membrillo, English Walnuts, Frisée and Aged Sherry Vinegar

The sherry vinegar was a nice touch - sometimes the expected jams or honeys are boring, and an acidic contrast is always welcome with cheese, but it has to be paired well for it to work.

Bartlett Pear Sorbet
with Roasted Jacobsen's Farm Pears and Chai Tea Sablé

Pears are so good and refreshing, a perfect pre-dessert.

"Gâteau Saint Nizier au Manjari"
Mango-Chili Relish, Valrhona Cocoa Nibs, Lime Foam and Coconut Milk Sorbet

Chocolate and lime is one of our favorite flavor combinations, from the lime caramels from Patrick Roger to the chocolate-lime truffles we made as favors for our wedding. This was a rich, dense, brownie-like cake with just enough tartness from the garnishes to make it finger-licking good.

Bakewell Tart
Huckleberries, Marcona Almonds and Andante Dairy Yogurt Sherbet

I remember this being good but not outstanding. It was nice to see Andante Dairy appearing on the table again, as we had been slathering the unsalted butter they make on our bread throughout the meal. (There was also salted butter from Vermont.)

Caramel Macadamia Nuts

So good I asked them to take the extras home,which they gladly bagged up for me to enjoy at my leisure. The thin coat of burned caramel just took these to the next level.

Mignardises

Presentation-wise, it was amazing. Who doesn't like a tower of treats and a tray of chocolate? Unfortunately, my stomach was starting to groan so I nibbled on the treats in the box and the server wisely packed up chocolate for us to take home.

Gardens and Sunset

Throughout our meal, we periodically got up to use the restroom and stroll through the picturesque garden, reveling in the sunshine and beautiful Napa weather. After we finished, we crossed the street to the kitchen gardens and walked through the rows of squash, eggplant, and the last bits of summer produce. It makes me long for space and land when I see things like this, a desire to try to grow my own food.

I have no regrets about my meal at The French Laundry and am glad that we brought along a camera to capture it all. I hope you enjoyed your journey with me and hope that you will be able to experience your own one day!


The French Laundry
6640 Washington St.
Yountville, CA 94599
(800) 944-1224

Tasting menu: $240 per person for prix fixe (service included)
Supplements for foie gras and white truffle pasta course
Wine not included

Bon Appétit!

db Bistro Moderne Bridal Shower

12 days and counting until the big day, eek!  But I guess it's not to late to talk about Bridal Shower #1.  I'm lucky to have received two showers since we have such great family and friends on each coast.

Day 2 in New York City was great, with one of the major factors being that I didn't have to plan anything!  The location of my bridal shower was kept a secret, and I was led to the special destination, db Bistro Moderne!

11 lovely ladies were there ready to celebrate and have a good time, with fresh flowers and adorable L.A. Burdick Chocolate Mice favors at each place.  Our party of 12 fit perfectly in the little side alcove of the main dining room, making it feel private but not removed from the other guests.

It was such a treat to have my shower at this restaurant, and we had such a difficult time deciding what to order.  Remembering my last time there and the amazing Escargots and Chicken Oysters Friccassée, I jumped when the server said the soup of the day was leek and potato with frogs' legs.  Creamy and with a hint of garlic, it was satisfying and simple, just what I needed since I had deliberately skipped breakfast.

The came our entrées.  My rockin' maid of honor (the other H in my life) ordered the lamb tagine, which was earthy, sweet and savory at the same time:

I chose the lobster salad, with avocado and hearts of palm.  While all the ingredients were stellar, it was seriously underdressed.  In fact, the only dressing was the drizzle over the top.  Poor dressing technique always bothers me, but the other aspects of the dish were still great.

Then came the fun part: presents!  During presents we also ordered dessert.  Since it was still winter, not much fruit was on the menu, so  I chose the chocolate-peanut-banana combination.  Yum.  The peanut ice cream was really nice, especially with the caramlized bananas.

A few mimosas, great company, delicious food, and a wonderful occasion to celebrate.  My bridesmaids sure know how to throw a bridal shower!

db Bistro Moderne
55 West 44th St.
New York, NY 10036

Bon Appétit!

Momofuku - Finally

Every time I go to New York City, I come back completely exhilarated yet exhausted.  There are too many places to try out, too many to revisit, too many to just stumble upon and relish in the discovery.

I went for a long weekend at the end of February for one of my bridal showers (yes, more than one - it's what happens when you have family & friends on both coasts).  Although the nicest part of the trip was seeing my best friend and other friends & family, eating and wandering was a close second.  And like the last trip, it was nonstop.

After taking a quick red-eye, I checked into the hotel and searched for breakfast, walking in unusually balmy weather before tucking into a baguette at Le Pain Quotidien.  The communal tables, bowls of coffee, and pots of jam and hazelnut-chocolate spread were just what I needed to settle into the trip.  Nothing too fancy, yet definitely not what I eat every morning to make it feel special.

I stopped hyperventilating and gasping at the prices for shoes at Neiman Marcus and made my first discovery of the trip: a chocolate café on the shoe floor!  I don't remember the name of it, but it actually has a conveyor belt loaded with glass domes of pastries going around the counter, with a few tables and a storefront of boxed chocolates.  Who knew?  It's a nice quiet place to get a sugar fix.

I succumbed to the temptation to crawl into bed and take a nap, then decided to find myself a late lunch, namely the Grand Central Oyster Bar.   As much as I loved the ambiance, the history, and watching the cook make my oyster pan roast in the weird contraption, the pan roast was much too rich for me and didn't come close to what I expected something called a pan roast to be.  Still, I loved the atmosphere and subsequently made my second discovery of the day, the Grand Central Market.  It's nice to know that Manhattan has such a fabulous place right in its heart.

The evening began with meeting up with the girls and having my first Momofuku experience.  Yes, my first ever Momofuku food - I think I've been living in a cave or something.  It took me long enough, but I think I kept secretly hoping to eat the legendary Bo Ssam as my first David Chang bite.  That will have to wait for another trip, but we hung out for a bit at Momofuku Bakery next door, amazed at how packed it was for a bakery on Friday night while we waited for a table at Momofuku Ssam.

Maybe we were giving off good vibes, maybe we were especially charming that night, but we ended up waiting only about 15 minutes on a Friday night at 8PM before we got a table.  Good table, good wine, good company, and adventurous eaters.  Here's what we ate, everything was spot-on and delicious, although the spicy rice cakes were a tad too spicy for all but the half-Korean in the group.

Oh, and the famous pork buns?  Every bit as good as rumored, so good that we placed two orders and then got another order to split as dessert.  Go figure.

Since it was dark, my pictures came out blurry and most can't be posted, but suffice to say that yes, we had a bowl of deep fried shrimp heads.  Yum.  I think we even joked about serving them at the wedding but decided that wouldn't be a good idea.  We were a little disappointed they wouldn't let us order dessert from the bakery next door, but we ordered one thing off the menu and it was great, lots of textural differences and really interesting (but for the life of me, I can't remember what it was).

Ending the night at Pegu Club for cocktails was the best idea.  It almost seems hidden, yet was jam-packed when we got there and remained so the whole night.  I immediately could tell this was a serious cocktail bar when my drink arrived with Kold-Draft ice cubes in it.  I won't go into it in this post, but suffice to say the classes I saw John Gertsen do at Stir gave me my first education in the importance of ice in drinks.

Stumbled back to the hotel and it was as end to another night in New York City.  Next up, the bridal shower!

Bon Appétit!

Mercato Centrale, Florence

On our last full day in Tuscany, we ventured into Florence for a quick jaunt.  It was a little disorienting being in a big city after passing through so many quiet hill towns, so I was a little thrown off by the heat, throngs of tourists, and general commotion of a big city.

Luckily, we found some respite in one of the large food halls, Mercato Centrale.  It was a quick walk from the train station, and while not nearly as impressive as, let's say, Barcelona's, it was fun to see the selection of produce and the normalcy of locals shopping for their meal rather than tourists crowding onto the Ponte Vecchio.

We split a porchetta sandwich for breakfast, liking the moist meat but extremely disappointed by the stale, stale bread.  I don't think I had one mouthful of good bread that week, but then again, the French will always win the baking titles.

 

Instead, we saw gorgeous wild asparagus, figs, and giant mushrooms.  Why is it that Europeans always seem to have the knack for displaying produce so beautifully?

After the produce and some actual sightseeing, we had lunch nearby and a quick gelato at Grom before boarding the train back to the villa, glad for quiet and flowing air.  Next stops, Rome and Paris!

Mercato Centrale
Florence, Italy

Bon Appétit!

NYC, Jean-Georges

Why do weekends in NYC always go by so quickly?  Granted, they are always fun: food, friends, frenetic energy.  But each trip always reminds me of a college cram session, where you try to condense as much as possible in a short amount of time, rarely retaining it long-term.

Two weekends ago was no different.  Arrive Thursday night, wish a beloved friend a happy birthday, go to bed at 2AM.  Wake up the next day to see another friend and have a negligible pastry, then hurry  to Columbus Circle for a 2:30 lunch reservation at Jean-Georges, which in my mind, is the best lunch deal for fine dining there is in NYC.

Now before I get into the juicy details about the food and service, here's how the rest of Friday flew past: a leisurely stroll back to the apartment, then down to the West Village for a meal at Blue Ribbon Bakery: fried chicken, brussels sprouts with bacon, fine bread, watercress and endive salad with blue cheese.  Not too shabby for what I called "first dinner."

Then it was onto The Tasting Room in the East Village for a few glasses of wine.  This place is hands-down my favorite wine bar in the city.  Dark, candlelit, interesting small plates for nibbling, brick walls, and a bartender who was knowledgeable, friendly, and so down-to-earth she had us all cheering for a woman in the bar who had just quit her job.  Fun times.

After The Tasting Room, I zipped back to the West Village for a late night "second dinner" at The Spotted Pig.  I think all second dinners have to have bacon and fries.  And they didn't disappoint us with their burger, gnudi, bacon wrapped dates and prunes, salad with fried duck egg and bacon.  I LOVE PIG.  Oh, and the bottle of sparkling rosé and prosecco didn't hurt either.

Rolling back home and falling into bed at 4AM is so unlike me, yet that's exactly what we did.  I think it took me a few days to recover and has confirmed how un-NYC I am.

We hit The Smith for brunch the next day (recommended) and Shake Shack for, what else, a shake and a burger.  Overall, it was an eating weekend for the books.  The first day back in Boston, my body was telling me that I had eaten too much, and it wasn't until I had a bowl of tomato soup with quinoa and tons and tons of vegetables that it relaxed and relished the much-needed nutrients and vitamins.

I was lazy with the food shots, so all I have are photos of our lunch at Jean-Georges, such a steal at $28 for two courses.  We were tucked into a booth and sat side-by-side, likening the experience to dinner theater.  Except for one small misstep with stringy white asparagus (which the sommelier apologized for), the service was excellent, from the hosts to the man who de-crumbed our table with a little manual crumb vacuum.  Enjoy!

   
The riveting light fixture and the gorgeous table arrangement.

Foie Gras Brulée, Dried Sour Cherries,
Candied Pistachios, White Port Gelée
(my favorite dish that day)

Peekytoe Crab Fritters, Honeycrisp Apples, Pink Peppercorn Vinaigrette

Crispy Artic Char, Miso Pommes Purée, Apple-Jalapeno Jus

Parmesan Crusted Confit Leg of Chicken,
White Asparagus, Basil & Lemon Butter

Citrus Dessert: Chocolate Poppy Seed Cake, Meyer Lemon Curd, Halva Powder,
Kaffir Lime Infused Jicama Noodles, Tangerine, Limoncello Granité

Chocolate, Vanilla, Lemon Poppy Seed Macarons
Bonus Desserts, the best kind!

Chocolate, Lemon, and Vanilla Marshmallows from the Marshmallow CART. 
Snipped to order.  No joke.

Vanilla, Honey, Bergamont, and one chocolate we can't remember. 
All delicious.

Bon Appétit!

Pearl Oyster Bar, NYC

Sometimes I get quite jealous when I read other people's blog posts.  It's usually when they have wonderful connections in the food industry that I wish I had ("Why, I just had the most fabulous afternoon shopping at the Farmer's Market with Alice Waters!" etc.)  I can't even name any restaurant where I know someone working there well enough to say it would make any difference on my dining experience.

Well, these days are over my friends.  Hooray!

One of our best friends, T, from cooking school now works as the oyster shucker at Pearl Oyster Bar in New York.  Since we were going to NYC mainly to catch up with her and lament that we no longer live in Paris, we of course had to check out her restaurant.  Not that we needed much prodding: it is the famed Pearl Oyster Bar after all.  I couldn't wait to try Chef Rebecca Charles' food and see how it compared to the New England seafood scene here in Boston.

The place isn't large, with an open kitchen, long bar, and some tables.  I almost felt like a celebrity: we didn't have to wait in line because we were T's friends, and we were introduced to the chef herself, very gracious and inviting.  We also got the best seats in the house, the last two bar seats closest to the kitchen.  You can see all the action there:  Chef Charles at the pass, inspecting and garnishing every item leaving her kitchen.  You get to see the oysters being shucked, the seafood being fried, the lobsters being steamed, the lobster rolls being stuffed.  A few times we got to chat with the chef and also watch her do even the most mundane tasks like putting away clean glasses.

>
Chef Charles and our friend T

The energy level in there is incredible.  The staff has very little turnover and buzzes around so efficiently you wonder if you ever have to ask for anything because they will anticipate it.  I haven't seen this much youthful energy in a restaurant since we went to Au Pied de Cochon in Montréal. 

6 Oysters

Of course we had to start with raw oysters, 6 on the half shell.   My one critique of the menu is that there is only one selection of oyster offered each night, so it seems to contradict the name "Oyster Bar." But they were delicious, briny, and came with a great cocktail sauce and mignonette sauce.

Fried Oysters

Chef Charles sent us a little treat next: a taste of her fried oysters.  They were amazingly light, crunchy, and full of ocean taste inside.  I also really enjoyed the homemade tartar sauce, rich and with the relish cut slightly larger so that they offered a nice tart contrast to the oysters.

Steamers

I never had steamers until I moved to Boston.  These are clams that have little feet on them.  You have to peel off this black layer of skin around each one, then swirl it in some clam broth to remove any remnants of sand.  Then the whole thing is dunked in melted butter before it goes into your mouth.  Such a weird thing, and I never would've guessed how you're supposed to eat them- for some reason they assume you know how to eat them.  Thank goodness I have native New Englanders to indoctrinate me in their wise ways!  The steamers here were the largest I'd ever seen, but juicy and full of flavor.

Salt Crusted Shrimp

Next came another small plate, 3 gigantic salt crusted shrimp.  They were deep fried with their shells on, just like in many Asian cuisines.  I love the taste and texture of fried shrimp shells, and they are purported to help you develop strong nails.  I just like them because they're tasty.

Skate with Fresh Corn, Peppers, and Snow Peas

A bit of advice: always check the blackboard menu to see what the special is.  We had a hard time deciding between the cod or the skate, but went with skate because it's not often seen on menus.  This was a huge portion, fried in highly seasoned flour and garnished with only a wedge of lemon.  The vegetable medley sang of summer: crisp, steaming hot, and simply prepared.

Unfortunately, we didn't try the famed lobster roll.  We'll save that for our next trip.  We had their famous apple crisp for dessert, but I guess I was too excited about it to take a photo.  Either that or food coma was setting in.

For New York, the prices were quite reasonable, with entrees around $20 unless you got something with lobster in it.  I love the fact that you can share tons of things and not have to take out a second mortgage.

We hung out after they closed to wait for our friend to break down her station, and all we did was dreamily nurse our glasses of wine and chat with the other staff about the celebrities that come through the door.  What more could you ask for?

Pearl Oyster Bar
18 Cornelia St.
New York, NY 10014
(212) 691-8211

Bon Appétit!

For Love of Chicken Oysters

Chicken Oysters + French Chefs = Nirvana

The first guest chef demonstration I ever went to at school featured chefs from the French Senat. These men, some MOFs, were intense, young, and talented. Their food seemed intent on being as French as possible, with foie gras, puff pastry, and squab- I loved it. This was what I came to France for, not vegetable soup or poached chicken with supreme sauce.

   

Squab & Foie Gras in Crisp Puff Pastry with Sesame and Poppy Seeds
Pigeon au Foie Gras en Croute de Sesame et Pavot

The surprise ingredient of that demonstration was the bag of chicken oysters they produced. Chicken oysters are the two little nuggets of meat tucked away in the back of the chicken. They are traditionally known as cook’s treats, a morsel of dark moist goodness that few people even know exist. They are the main reason why I volunteer to carve roast chickens.

The French being French, the Senat chefs served them seared with a foie gras custard, topped with, what else, crisped bacon! I remember greedily wolfing down my tasting portion and my eyes rolling to the back of my head in awe.

Foie Gras Savory Custard with Golden Chanterelle Mushrooms,
Bacon Chips & Chicken Oysters
Royale de Foie Gras et Crème de Griolles
au Lard Grille et Sot Ley Laisse

I was impressed at how the French chefs were able to purvey a whole bag of chicken oysters, but I sadly dismissed the notion that I would ever be served them again. No more fancily prepared chicken oysters for moi.

Until now.

We went to French Chef Daniel Boulud’s NYC restaurant, db Bistro Moderne, last Friday. Boulud is known for making the first fancy burger, and it is stuffed with braised short ribs and foie gras in the middle. We went there because I wanted to try Boulud’s food, plus our friend Tabitha worked garde manger there. (Thanks for taking care of us, Tabitha!)

Of course we ordered the burger, but then my eyes zeroed in on an appetizer under the chicken section: a Frog's Legs and Chicken Oyster Fricassee, served with Hazelnut Spaetzle and Button Mushrooms. How much more French could you get? Once I saw that, the excitement about the burger flew out the window and all I wanted was fricassee. (On their online menu, it swaps out the frog's legs for escargot, but I'm pretty sure ours had frog in it.)

The dish was pure genius: chicken oysters, complete with skin, seared to a crisp with a juicy center. Paired with frog’s leg meat that, yes, did taste like chicken, I was amazed at the simple yet unexpected match. The rich spaetzle added texture, and the sauce sent a waft of warm garlic aroma straight into my nose the minute the plate was set before me.

I don’t usually gush much, but gush I did. My dining companions will probably attest to the fact that I ignored them for awhile as I inhaled yet tried to savor one of the best dishes I’ve had this entire year. If I hadn’t promised H that we would split the starter, he probably wouldn’t have gotten any taste of it. When the table next to us was debating on whether or not to order it, it took all my willpower not to interrupt them and say, “Yes, you should order it! It’s amazing!”

Get thee to db Moderne Bistro for the fricassee. Just don’t tell me about it, or I’ll be jealous.

(Oh, and the burger was good too, but I’m not sure if I qualify it as a real burger. Too fancy.)

db Bistro Moderne
55 West 44th St.
New York, NY 10036
(212) 391-1188

Bon Appétit!

NYC Restaurants?

I'm on my way to NYC next weekend to catch up with friends, and while I've been to the city many times before, I want some insider tips on restaurants.  Yes, there is Boulud and Batali and Bastianich, but I'm looking for places that are honest, unpretentious, and with genuinely good food.

Here's what I'm looking for:

• A place that will take a late reservation for 4 on a Friday night (essential, as we are driving in late to the city and do not want to wait in line or have to look for something on the fly)
• Entrées around $25 or less
• Nothing gimmicky- no airs or foams or essences

There are just too many restaurants to wade through in the city- it gets overwhelming and frustrating sometimes.  I like it when restaurants are described with the words "neighborhood place" or "where the chefs eat after service."

Come on, surprise me.  I know you can do it.

(Some Sunday brunch recommendations would be nice too.)

Thanks in advance, I know you guys will come through!

Bon Appétit!

The Oyster Po' Boy

Oyster Po' Boy

Oysters: briny, cool, slippery, sweet, complex

How can you amplify such divine perfection?  Turn it into an oyster po' boy.

H & I were in New Orleans last week for a fabulously fun wedding.  The bride and groom decided to host the wedding there in order to contribute back to an economy still struggling from Katrina.  What selflessness, so rare nowadays with bridezillas and crazy celebrity weddings.

Me?  I was selfishly dreaming of all the fabulous food I would be eating that weekend.  My first trip to New Orleans years ago had already whetted my appetite for its cuisine, and I was ready to attack again.  The beautiful city didn't disappoint: from gorgeous gumbo at Antoine's to cheesy grits and gravy at the House of Blues brunch, my stomach was sated and groaning.  And of course we hit Café du Monde for beignets.

The single most memorable bite, though, was the oyster po' boy at Johnny's Po' Boys.  We wavered back on forth on whether to order shrimp or oyster, but finally settled on oyster since, come on, this is what a po' boy is all about.  Looking back, what was I thinking- we should've just ordered both and skipped the burned gumbo I ordered instead.

(And for those of you unfamiliar with it, a po' boy is a uniquely American sandwich that consists of fried seafood or sliced meats sandwiched in soft French bread.  "Dressed" means served with condiments such as lettuce or mayo.  Advice: cover liberally with hot sauce before eating.)

Back to the eating.  These oysters were small, fried to a crisp with the lightest breading on the outside.  They came tumbling out the sides of the sandwich as to say, "Eat me first!  I'm delicious!"  It was all I could do not to just start popping them into mouth without the bread.  But I refrained, doused one side of the sandwich with hot sauce, nestled the wandering bivalves back into their snug sandwich, and took my first bite.

Crunchy, slippery, briny, salty, sweet, spicy, cool, hot.  You name the sensation or taste?  It was probably there.

And the wait staff at the restaurant?  They reminded me that I was on friendly, New Orleans time:  when it was my turn to order at the counter, I opened my mouth, ready to efficiently place my order since there was a long line stretching behind me.  Instead, the cashier smiled and said, "How ya'll doing today?"  She then proceeded to actually ask us why we were in town before wishing us a fun trip.  What was I thinking, trying to rush?

Get thee to New Orleans.  If not, attempt making an oyster po' boy at home.  I know I'll be trying.

Johnny's Po' Boys
511 St. Louis St.
New Orleans, LA
Open until 4 or 4:30PM everyday

Bon Appétit!

Soft-Shell Crab Addiction

Tempura Soft-Shell Crab

I confess: I'm guilty.

I've become a serious soft-shell crab addict.

Ever since I realized that soft-shell crab is a lovely item available here on the East Coast, I've ordered it every time I see it on a restaurant menu.

What is it about soft-shell crab that's so delicious?  The legs are usually crunchy, but that's not it.  It must be the succulent, tender middle that carries delicate sweet crab flavor with it.  Oh, and the fact that they're usually deep fried probably helps their greatness too.  I know that part of the fun of eating crab is cracking the shells, but not having to do that yields bonus points for lazy eaters like me.

Soft-Shell Crab with Corn Risotto

For awhile, I've stuck to my guns as a native West Coast transplant and said that Dungeness crab reigns supreme.  I've always loved it over regular blue crab, Alaskan king crab, or even stone crab.  Crabs out here are too small or their meat is just not as flaky and sweet as Dungeness.  But while I still dearly love the Dungeness, soft-shell crab has started to work its way up on the totem pole.

Here are some of the places I've had it at recently.  The season will end soon, so act quickly, and remember to call beforehand to make sure they have it on the menu. 

Boston: Lunch at L'Espalier had a tempura soft-shell crab with pineapple relish starter.  The darling bargain in town (around $17) was the salt and pepper soft-shell crab at Taiwan Café in Chinatown, complete with 3-4 whole crabs, cut up and fried with seasoned salt.  Bin 26 had one of my favorites, a perfectly juicy pan-fried crab on top of arugula, shaved fennel, and pecorino(?) cheese.

Soft-Shell Crab with Arugula and Chickpeas

Washington, DC: Firfely's version was the most playfully plated, with the crab standing proud and tall on a bed of arugula and chickpeas.  The lounge at Citronelle won for the best accompaniment: a corn "risotto" with rich sweet corn and tiny pieces of pasta.

All this talk of soft-shell crab is making my mouth water.  Unfortunately, I've been having a difficult time locating them at seafood shops here in DC.  But I'll be back in Boston tomorrow and will have to hunt them down so that I can make my own soft-shell crab po' boy.  Yum.

Bon appétit!