Encore Le Cinq

Le Cinq take two!

Who could forget the exquisite truffle tasting of last November?  I didn't think I would ever go to Le Cinq again, but here I was in the fancy part of town again being treated for lunch (thanks to the generosity of fun out-of-town visitors).  I again opted for the tasting, this time focusing on spring.  Paired with a white Burgundy, it was a perfect way to start celebrating the gorgeous weather Paris has finally given to us.

I found the experience completely different this time.  Daylight streaming through the windows made the room cheerier and highlighted the gorgeous flower arrangements.  Service was again completely professional yet a little playful at the same time.  We also got another kitchen tour (upon request), and this time the kitchen was much busier, with people running about plating the last of the lunch dishes.

Blanc Manger de Sole aux Asperges Vertes
Blanc Manger of Sole Fish with Green Asparagus

I thought the plating was simple yet elegant, a sole mousse topped with a parmesan crisp.  The asparagus was great, just wished there was more of it!

Cabillaud de Ligne Rôti aux Girolles et aux Fèves
Roasted Fresh Cod Fish with
Chantarelle Mushrooms and Broad Beans

I was surprised at the large serving size here for a tasting. The fish was perfectly cooked and served with chanterelle mushrooms, jus, and fava beans.  Looking back, I'm not sure the fava beans were a great match- it had an earthy taste to it that I feel mushrooms also have, but I would have preferred a lighter-tasting vegetable.

Foie Gras Chaud Poêlé a la Rubarbe et aux Fruits Rouges
Warm Pan-Fried Duck Liver with Rhubarb and Red Fruits

Perfectly seared foie gras, but alas, there was a vein in it (and in someone else's).  Finding a vein meant that yes, it was cut from a whole foie gras, but finding that unpleasant texture in it seemed like a big oversight.  I know I eat chicken feet and other weird animal parts, but I just didn't expect to find a vein in my liver at a 3-star restaurant.  The sauce, however, was divine- rich, tart, sweet, and smooth all at the same time.  It was like spooning down liquid gold.

Gigot d'Agneau de Lait des Pyrénées
aux Saveurs des Indes
Milk Fed Lamb from the Pyrenees,
Seasoned with Indian Spices

Now why did I think that this lamb would actually taste like Indian spices?  I should know by now that the French never use spices heavily.  While the lamb was tender (like a slice of prime rib), there was no other flavor besides that of the lamb itself.  If not for the lack of the promised Indian spices, I would have said this dish was perfect.  In fact, I had forgotten that the spices were supposed to be in there until I was halfway through eating this dish.

Spring Vegetables with Almonds

A melange of spring vegetables came with my lamb.  Nice and al dente, simply prepared with a sprinkling of almonds on top.  And gasp, no turned vegetables!

Coffee Granita with Coffee Cream / Custard

The table favorite- the pre-dessert.  Refreshing and satisfying.  Why are the memorable dishes always the amuse bouches?  Is it because the serving size that leaves you wanting more?  Or is it something so fabulous the kitchen has to hoard it and dole it out in small portions?

Meringue Legere au Sorbet Fromage Blanc
Light Meringue, Cream Cheese Sorbet

Usually I'm not a meringue fan, but this was great.  A light meringue filled with lime cream-cheese sorbet, served with a creamy raspberry sauce.  While most of the elements were tart, they all came together surprisingly well.

Dark Chocolate, Toffee

While the cheese cart didn't roll by, the candy cart did!  Since I'd had their gelees and almond paste before, I went for chocolate and toffee.  The chocolates had crushed pralines inside and were covered with dark chocolate.  It was great that they left the cart by our table so that we could mull and decide if we wanted second helpings  I'm thinking of getting my own candy cart for my room here in Paris- every girl needs one!

So Le Cinq was my second 3-star restaurant of that week.  I know I'm getting spoiled, but soon I'll be back in the land of no stars- what a sad day that will be!  (Although San Francisco will be getting its own Michelin guide soon- may I be a contributing critic?)

 

Le Cinq
Four Seasons Hotel- George V
31 Ave George V
75008 Paris
Tel. 01 49 52 70 00
Métro: George V

Bon Appétit!

Comments

[wade]

two eprops for the picture of prime rib! or lamb...or whatever that is.

[Linda Mathieu]

I was with some major "foodies" who run a restaurant in NYC. They told me that they had eaten at many of the top places in Paris and le Cinq was the best by far. Someday, when my ship comes in, or a generous friend, I want to try it.
The lovely flowers, by the way, are done by an American who get one million euros a year just to buy the flowers!

[Chez Christine]

wade: it was lamb :)

Linda: Yes, I heard the same thing, he is from Denver. The flowers are always something to look forward to, even if it's just a quick turn in the lobby.