A Tale of Two Robuchons

Jöel Robuchon. When naming famous French chefs, you can't help but run into this name over and over again.

When my friend Michelle came to visit, we wanted to splurge on a nice meal.  After all, there were too many good restaurants in Paris to pass up.  However, splurging on a student budget usually didn't include any Michelin-starred restaurants.

Unless you go to La Table de Jöel Robuchon.  This two-star restaurant has one of the best values for a weekday lunch in the city.  For 55 Euros, you get an amuse-bouche, a choice of starter, main course, and dessert, cheese, wine, and coffee.  I dare you to find a better deal at a Michelin-starred restaurant.

The reservation process was easy, the service was flawless (I liken it to Gary Danko in San Francisco, winner of the James Beard Foundation award for best service), the food spectacular (even with a few slight misses).

Lunch Menu Options

Foie Gras Amuse-Bouche

I dug in with my spoon all the way to the bottom for each bite, which consisted of a rich smooth foie gras custard and foam on top.  Robuchon's signature amuse-bouche, one that left me licking the glass and wanting more.  Why are amuse-bouches so small???

Les Ravioles de Fromage de Chèvre Frais au Basilic,
dans un Bouillon aux Crevettes Gris
Fresh Goat Cheese Ravioli with Basil,
Grey Shrimp Consommé

While there was nothing wrong in the execution of this dish, I found it a little bland except for the hits of ginger I would get.

Les Huitres Fines de Claire n°2 en Gelée de Persil à l'Echalote
Raw Oysters in Parsley & Shallot Gelée

Beautiful in presentation, the oysters were perfectly set in a flavorful yet not overpowering gelée.  Refreshing and the portion size was perfect.

La Daube de Boeuf Fondante, Macaronis à la Provençale
Braised Beef with Provençale Macaroni

Tender beef braised in a rich sauce, it was good but not outstanding.  The macaroni was served tableside and just didn't seem to match well with the beef.  Although there were tomatoes in the pasta, a fresher element was needed to balance out the richness of the beef.  Perhaps an herb salad?

La Lotte au Curcuma, Artichaut et Courgette
Monkfish with Turmeric, Artichokes & Zucchini

A light dish full of flavor.  I like monkfish, especially with an exotic spice that can contrast with the meatiness of the flesh.  Artichokes and zucchini were pan fried and flavorful.

Brie de Meaux & Walnut Bread

I love this cheese, even if it does smell like moldy locker.  Always get Brie de Meaux if you can!

Coffee Cream Dessert

Strangely American child-like.  It tasted like melted coffee ice cream with a wafer garnished with M&M candies on top.  Smooth and creamy.

Strawberry Rhubarb Dessert

The natural strawberry-rhubarb pairing.  I liked the different textures here, from cold to soft to crunchy to sweet to tart.

Chocolate Caramels

My one regret of that day: not putting the extras in my purse.  When you bit into these, a smooth buttery caramel oozed out.

Again, the service was so attentive that at one point we could barely see the table with all the hands serving us.  I loved the understated elegance of the room, the atmosphere that made me want to linger, and the food that was purely French yet thoroughly interesting.

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L'Atelier de Jöel Robuchon (one-star Michelin).  As close to a NYC feel as you can get, this restaurant feels out of place in an old city like Paris.  Mosey up to the chic barstools and order small plates- that's the formula for this place.

Unfortunately my camera chose to die towards the beginning of the meal, so I don't have pictures of most of the plates that were consumed.  Service was at times bad- they forgot the extra mashed potatoes we had requested thrice, they kept answering us in English even though we were clearly trying to use French.  But the buzz of the open kitchen was fascinating, especially for culinary students, and the staff wasn't really there to coddle you.

The jus for my lamb chops was overpoweringly salty.  If I had served this at school, my chef would have criticized me for salting too early in the reduction process.  Everything else was wonderful, including the house-cured ham I had as a starter.

The legendary mashed potatoes certainly didn't disappoint, but I guess you can't go wrong with equal parts mashed potato and butter.  My entire mouth felt coated with butter, and a few tablespoons in I conceded defeat.  My toque comes off to you here, Chef Robuchon!

White & Green Asparagus Soup


Marinated Raw Scallops


Milk Fed Lamb & the famous mashed potatoes

This place is great for dining alone, but hard on larger parties, as conversation is difficult to maintain when you are all sitting in a row.  It is also expensive, especially considering the 55 Euro lunch menu at La Table gives you more food for the money.  But the vibe at each place is different, and I was glad to have tried both.

Robuchon is opening (or has opened) more L'Ateliers in New York and Vegas.  When is he coming to San Francisco?  I would love to intern there!

Thus endeth the list of stars.  Hope you enjoyed the commentary and the photos as much as I did experiencing it all.  (On a side note, the list of stars hasn't ended- there was a surprise trip to Guy Savoy!)

La Table de Jöel Robuchon
16, ave Bugeaud
75016, Paris
01 56 28 16 16
Lunch and dinner, 55 Euro lunch menu on weekdays only
Métro: Victor Hugo

L'Atelier de Jöel Robuchon
5, rue de Montalembert
75005, Paris
01 42 22 56 56
Lunch and dinner, reservations for first seating only- inquire with restaurant
Métro: Rue du Bac

Bon Appétit!

Comments

[mich]

mmmm...I can still taste all that yummy food. Thank you for letting me live through you these past 9 months. Can't wait to see you! =)

[Jazz]

your pictures always make me hungry....look what i found...i wonder how authentic this stuff taste..

www.cafeglace.com

[Chez Christine]

mich: me too!

Jazz: I have no idea, I don't actually see many ice cream cakes here. But then again, I've never looked for them :)